Au Petit Tonneau



Au Petit Tonneau-7th arrondissement

A fixture for thirty years  au petit tonneau has been serving hearty cuisine on a street lined with bistros. Eight months ago  Ginette Boyer turned over the reins to Arlette Iga who brings a warm, French-speaking, Mexican welcome ( she was born in Mexico City) and  an Eric Frechon,




Bristol-trained Chef Jais Mimoun to this charming spot

I was intentionally a few minutes early to get a look at the kitchen, take some photos and meet Arlette and since it was Wednesday, her daughters who were dining with a friend from school.

After a bit of shmoozing I was seated and offered a flute of Deutz brut, rosette de Lyon and crunchy cherry tomatoes.My neighbors were Parisians who had relocated to Saint Cyr sur Mer on the Cote d’Azur where I had coincidentally once rented a vacation house. They were movie buffs and we relished memories of Jean Gabin.

Halfway through the flute Sanjay from the Hotel Artus arrived and over his flute and the last drops for me we pondered the menu before allowing Arlette to design a menu de dégustation.

We started with white asparagus in a tart vinaigrette with shaved parmesan and a 2010 white Saint Esprit Cote du Rhone followed by the tiny green lentilles de Puy with carrots, green spring onions, parsley, turnips, bacon and ecrivesses. More Saint Esprit was poured.

A beautiful filet of roasted Saint Pierre accompanied by braised endive was next and we stuck with the delightful Saint Esprit.

For the carré d’agneau that was well done on the outside and rosé on the inside we enjoyed a young but very good La Grande Métarie from Bordeaux.

Chef Jais’ Grand Marnier Soufflé was ethereal and after sprinkling it with Grand Marnier it was perfumed air. A 2009 Muscat de Beaumes de Venise was an ideal partner.

Iga served us espresso as Jais delivered a very lightly sugared tarte tatin with crème fraiche-a perfect ending to lovely afternoon.

As always when dining in France the lunch formule at 22 euros -entrée, plat, dessert is a bargain.

20 rue Surcouf, Paris 75007

Metro: La Tour Maubourg

Tel: 01-4705-0901

Closed Monday

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