The Knickerbocker Knack
Peggy Knickerbocker talks to Terrance Gelenter

I couldn’t turn down the offer of a home cooked lunch so I climbed San Francisco’s Hyde Street, cable cars “climbing halfway to the stars” on my right until I found Peggy’s turn of the century (20th) house. I was handed a glass of red wine and ushered into the kitchen where we talked and ate.

TG: When did you first go to Paris? PK: I went to Paris in my sophomore year of college because I had gone from the dazzle of San Francisco to the incessant drizzle of Eugene, Oregon where I studied at the University. I hated it and since it rained everyday, I stayed in and got good grades and went on a junior year abroad program, a year early. I studied at Science Po and I learned about French cooking.

TG: When and why did you come back to stay? I came back many times to rent apartments and to stay with friends. When, 5 years ago, I could not stand it any longer not to have my own kitchen and to cook as I liked so I decided to buy a place there. I also get a lot more attention from men in Paris than I do in San Francisco.

TG: Where do you live (arrondissement?) PK: I live on rue Madame in the 6th, 100 meters from the Luxembourg gardens.
TG: Why? PK: I bought in the same neighborhood that I lived in as a student. I was familiar with it and when I saw the courtyard of the building in which I bought, I was smitten. I also looked in the 5th and the 14th.

TG: What's your favorite café? PK: I love Flore and Les Deux Magots but when I go out for a quick coffee or to meet someone, especially when the trees are leafy and the seats are dappled, I go to Cafe de la Mairie on rue ST Sulpice.

TG: What wines do you serve at home? PK: Bandol Rosé in the summer and Quincy, a Sauvignon Blanc based wine produced in an appellation of the same name. It is usually a crisp, herbal/mineral nuanced wine that acts as a good aperitif or light white. For reds, Cairanne from Domaine Richaud or the Rasteau from Ch. Trignon (these are both Grenache/Syrah based wines, lushly fruity and highly adaptable)

TG: What's your favorite starred restaurant? PK: I am not a fan of fancy restaurants but I do love the rooms at the Crillion and at Le Grand Vefour. I love L'Assiette in the 14th

TG: What's your favorite bistro coin? PK: I love Chez Michel by l'Eglise St Paul up by Gare du Nord, I like simple, authentic, regional cooking where the quality of the produce and food shines

TG: What's your favorite market? PK: My market is the biologique (organic) at Raspail on Sundays but I go all over Paris. I love Maubert and the little biologique marché called Batignolles in teh 17th. It's on Saturdays. At many of the other markets, the vendors just go to the big main produce market and buy their goods. One is more apt to actually meet the farmer or the cheese maker at the biologique markets. The food is more delicate and delicious. I always try to arrive on a Friday or a Saturday to make one of both of these markets. I also love the energy at Aligre and of course, the big Sunday market at the Bastille is formidable.

TG: What's your favorite park or garden? PK: Well I know the Luxembourg Garden because it is one block from my house. I am in it every day. I love to watch the kids play and hear them speak French. I always wish I could just speak as well as a French 5 year old playing with his little boat. I also love the Parc Monceau especially from the windows of the Nissim de Comando museum.

TG: What's your favorite time of the year? PK: I go in November, February of March and then usually in June. Is there a month that is not enchanting in Paris? I love winter because you can see the bones of the city because the trees are leafless and I love being there for Thanksgiving, often with friends.

TG: How or do you stay connected to America? PK: Email, IHT (International Herald Tribune), TV and the phone. It is so inexpensive to call these days. I have a lot of American friends in Paris, I cannot help it, it just turned out that way.

TG: How do you celebrate Thanksgiving? PK: The year I bought my apartment I circled Thanksgiving as the day it would be ready to have my first party. I had 13 people for a great dinner, David Tanis, the chef at Chez Panisse helped cook, and other friends brought things. I made corn bread and got little rolls from Poilaine with everyone's name written in dough on them and used them as place cards. I had exactly 12 of everything and when one of my French friends wanted to bring along another friend, they had to bring a chair, a couple of wine glasses, a plate and etc. It was a fantastic party and I have had a party a week there ever since, when I am there, of course. I love to cook in Paris, that is half of the point of being there, in my opinion.

TG: How has Paris affected your work? PK: Well I just wrote a book about entertaining and cooking in Paris and San Francisco. I have thought up many magazine articles about Paris and France. One about how food plays into Diane Johnson's work, another about meringues --about a meringue diet, another about Jambon et Brocante in Chatou. I went to the South of France to do a story on a dentist from Aix who used dacshunds as truffle hounds.

TG: How has Paris affected your life? PK: From my first day there my life has never been the same. It opened up my possibilities at 19 and it still does every time I cross a bridge, walk down the street, find a new delicacy, run into a friend, get to know French a little better. I have been going for almost 40 years and what I know for sure is that I have barely scratched the surface. .
 
Meet Peggy on 10/24