Rebecca Schall, author of “Historic Photos of Paris"

San Francisco native, history teacher, ardent Francophile and flaneuse Rebecca shares her passion for Paris.

When did you first go to Paris?

I first went to Paris with my family for a summer vacation when I was 6 years old.  I was too young to truly appreciate the history, art, and culture, but I do recall seeing the Mona Lisa in the Louvre and Napoleon’s horse in the Military Museum, and those memories have stayed with me always. 

I remember traveling on the Seine on a Bateau Mouche, going to the top of the Eiffel Tower and seeing all of the city lights, eating a lot of ice cream, and walking down the famous boulevards.  My brother and I were fascinated by how many dogs there were all over the city and how people took their dogs into restaurants.

When and why did you realize it was a subject that you had to write
about?

I was lucky to visit Paris many more times as a child and teenager. 
When I studied history in college, I gravitated towards European
history, especially social, cultural, and intellectual history.  I found French history, particularly Parisian history, fascinating.  After graduating college, I spent some time in Paris during the severe heat wave in the summer of 2003.  I remember walking along the Seine around 10:00 at night, and the streets were packed with people. 

People were salsa dancing along the quai of the Seine near Notre Dame, and I was acutely aware of how alive Paris was.  I thought how wonderful it would be to live in Paris and experience daily life like the French rather than visiting as a tourist.  At the time, I had no idea that a
few years later, my dream would come true. 

In graduate school studies, I specialized in European and French history.  I finished the last year of my Masters program doing a year abroad in Paris, where I took classes at the Sorbonne - Paris IV, taught English, and did historical research.  It was during this year that I decided to write about the city I had come to love so that others could learn about the rich history of this magnificent city.

How did the Historic Photos of Paris project come about?

Last year, I made many valuable contacts, such as Lyne Cohen Solal who was the President of the Fondation and Roger Viollet who is also adjoint to the mayor of Paris for the 5th arrondissement where I lived and people with connections to the Paris archives.

Where did you find the fotos?

Most of the photos from Historic Photos of Paris came from L’Agence de
Roger-Viollet, an extraordinary photo archive in the sixth
arrondissement. The rest of the photos came from the Library of
Congress.

How many fotos did you review per section and what was your process to evaluate and decide which to use?

I spent many weeks at Roger-Viollet looking through thousands of
cataloged photos on a digital catalog and hard copies of photos in
dozens of massive binders.  The book was supposed to feature
photographic images from the mid-19th century through 1968, so I
organized the book based on the historic eras during this period – the
Haussmann Restoration and the Rebuilding of Paris, The Belle Epoque,
World War I and the Twenties, The Interwar Crisis, and The Occupation
and Liberation of Paris.  This structure provided me with a plan for
selecting the photographs that would help me tell the city’s story.

Who are you favorite photographers of Paris? 

Robert Doisneau and Cartier Bresson are obvious choices.  You can find their photos sold all along the Seine in the Bouquiniste stalls.  However, some of the most amazing photos that I found in the archives were taken by anonymous photographers.  Some are candid snapshots of classic scenes of Paris life, such as market scenes and children playing along the Seine, and others are dramatic snapshots of important events of the last two centuries, including the Commune, World War I, The German Occupation of Paris and the American Liberation, and the student riots of 1968.

What’s your favorite café?

I don’t have a favorite café.  I preferred to walk around the city and
find a place that provided an opportunity for good people watching.  I
liked Café Hugo in Places des Vosges, and La Contrescarpe in Place
Contrescarpe, where rue Mouffetard turns into rue Descartes.  I also
think it’s fun to go to famous historic cafes, such as Les Deux Magots,
le Procope, and Café de Flore.

What’s your favorite starred restaurant? 

I haven’t been to many starred restaurants, given that I was living in Paris on a student’s budget, but my parents and some close friends and gourmands have told me that their favorites are Lucas Carton, Les Ambassadeurs, Joel Rubichon and Tallevant.

What’s your favorite bistro du coin?

My father loves a book called Great Eats in Paris, by Sandra Gustafson, a detailed guide to restaurants of all types of cuisine, prices, and locations in Paris.  When my family visits Paris, they always use this book to select new restaurants, and they have never been disappointed.  

The number of places to eat in Paris is overwhelming, but that book is filled with predictably good and even great choices.  Among my favorite bistros are L’Epoque, in the 5th arrondissement in Place Contrescarpe, Café Hugo, La Fermette Mabeuf, and Au Petit Tounneau.  If a place can make a great confit de canard, I am happy.

What’s your favorite market? 

I lived a block away from the Rue Mouffetard open-air market, so I got fresh produce, cheese, wine, specialty items, and other delicious treats everyday.  At Place Monge (Metro stop on line 7), there is an exceptional market three times a week.  The Sunday market especially is always packed.  Walking around the open-air markets was one of my favorite things to do when I lived in Paris.

What’s your favorite park or garden? 

Jardin du Luxembourg is my favorite park.  I used to have picnics there regularly when the weather was mild.  Everything about the garden – the landscape, fountain, and the palace – and the Eiffel Tower in the background are stunning.   I like to watch the kids sailing their toy boats on the pond. 

There are always chairs around the large fountain, and many hidden corners of the park with beautiful flowers, fountains, statues, and benches.  I enjoy strolling around, looking at the statues of French queens, reading, and people watching for hours.

What’s your favorite time of the year? 

Paris is exciting throughout the year, but my favorite time of the year is spring.  After months of harsh weather, freezing, rainy days, and constant gray skies, at some point usually in April virtually over night, it becomes spring… and the temperature rises, everything is in bloom, and Paris comes back to life.  It feels like the whole winter was a dream.

How has Paris affected your work?

I am a history teacher and guidance counselor at a French immersion
school called International School of the Peninsula, located near
Stanford University in Palo Alto, California.  I was interviewed for my
position by the Headmaster of the school while I was living in Paris. 
He happened to be in Paris recruiting new French teachers while I lived
there. 

My year in Paris had a profound impact on my work.  It opened
many doors for me, gave me a chance to fully explore all parts of the
city and experience Parisian life as a local, and allowed me to
continue my study of French history surrounded by the relics of the
past.  Best of all, Paris was the perfect place for me to improve my
French language skills.

How has Paris affected your life?

Spending a year in Paris has had a profound impact on my life.  It
exposed me to a culture and lifestyle that were radically different
from what I experienced growing up in California.  Living in Paris,
immersed in French, and forced to adapt to situations and ways of life
that were out of my comfort zone, allowed me to grow personally and
professionally.  I made some of the best friends of my life in Paris. 

Paris is like a second home to me now, and I look forward to returning
regularly.  I know how fortunate I was to be there.  I loved every
minute of it, even living in my 16 square meter apartment on the 7th
floor of a Haussmann building with no elevator

If you live in the Bay Area meet Rebecca on
February 15: 7:30 pm at
Books, Inc.
301 Castro Street
Mountain View, CA 94041